<h2>How to Take a Cherry Tree Cutting</h2>
Propagating cherry trees is not impossible or particularly difficult. In fact, with just a few steps, anyone can have a grove full of cherry trees all rooted from only one. Taking a cutting is the less expensive and most successful way of propagating a cherry tree if done correctly. The following article is intended to confidently guide readers through the process of taking a cherry tree cutting with suggestions on where to begin, what tools to use and how to expand their grove.
<h3>Picking the Right Tree</h3>
The first thing to consider is which cherry tree to use for the cutting. If a certain cultivar is to be used, picking it is easy. However, if a wild cherry tree with unknown origins is to be used, this is a bit more complicated. First of all, wild cherry trees rarely create true-to-type offspring when propagated. This means, if you take a wild cherry tree cutting, it is incredibly likely you will be taking what is effectively a hybrid cutting.
Experts suggest looking for a healthy, vigorous tree that flowers and produces abundant fruit. A tree with no visible signs of disease or insect damage is the best option. Once the tree is picked, the cutting can be taken.
<h3>Collecting the Cutting</h3>
When taking a cherry tree cutting, it is best to do this in the late summer or early fall season. Picking a young shoot is ideal as these will be more successful in reproduction. The shoot should be about 6 to 8 inches long and no thicker than a pencil. Pruning shears will be needed to sever the shoot from the tree. Make certain the cutting is done close to a node as this is the area of active meristems (the cells used for growth) and will will help the cutting form roots.
Once the cutting is collected, it should be dipped in a rooting inducer and stored in a cool, moist place. If at all possible, it is best to have multiple cuttings ready in case one fails.
<h3>Planting the Cutting</h3>
Once it is time to plant the cutting, fill a pot that is just large enough to hold the cutting with a potting soil mix. The depth of the pot should be around 8 inches. Place the cutting in the soil so that the node is covered by one half inch of soil. Do not plant the cutting too deeply or too shallow.
It is important to water the cutting generously, but also make sure that too much does not pool around the cutting or at the bottom of the pot. Covering the pot with a plastic bag or putting it inside a plastic dome can help keep the soil moist. Make sure to only do this when the cutting is first planted and remove the covering after a few days.
<h3>Care for the Cutting</h3>
After the cherry tree cutting is planted in the pot, it needs to receive at least six hours of direct sunlight. Keeping it in a warm spot will also help the cutting take root. As soon as new growth emerges, the cutting should be regularly watered and fertilized to ensure its health.
It is important not to move the pot around too much during the rooting process. The cutting has to remain in one spot, since changing its location can disrupt the root formation. It will take a few weeks to months before the cutting is established and can be planted in the ground.
<h3>Expanding the Grove</h3>
Once the cutting has successfully taken root and is ready for planting, cherry growers can begin expanding their grove. Creating an orchard of cherry trees can be done in several different ways.
Firstly, cuttings from the original grafted cherry tree can be taken to propagate more of the same tree. This will help to ensure the grower will get the same cultivar, but due to the process, it is still possible that the trees will not be exact clones.
The second option is to propagate another tree from seed, or from another cutting. Collecting a wild cherry seed is much cheaper and easier than buying a grafted cultivar. However, since the seed is a wild variety, the resulting tree will require a lot of work and may not even produce edible fruit.
The final option is to buy a commercial graft and/or rootstock. These pre-grafted plants are available in many nurseries and allow the grower to get the same cultivar as their original cherry tree.
<h3>Harvesting the fruit</h3>
Once the cherry trees are established, they will begin to produce fruit in a few years. However, the fruit-set of cherry trees is often poor and requires specific conditions to yield bountiful crops.
Firstly, both the growing conditions, such as soils and water, and the cultural practices, such as pruning and fertilizing, need to be ideal. Good and even pollination is also necessary for uniform and satisfying fruit ripening. Though the best pollinators of cherry trees are bees, it may be necessary to help out by hand-pollinating the flowers when there are few bees available.
Finally, cherry growers should have an accurate understanding of the cultivars they select as different varieties will have different harvest times and require different management practices.
<h2>Storing Cherry Tree Cuttings</h2>
Cherry tree cuttings should be kept in a cool and dry place until ready for planting. If the cuttings need to be kept for a long period of time, wrapping them in moist newspaper and then placing them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator is the best way to go. Cuttings can also be kept dry by placing them in a sealed jar, such as a mason jar, and adding one-tenth of a teaspoon of talc or honey as a drying agent.
<h2>Soil Requirements</h2>
Cherry trees require soils with a pH range between 6 and 7 and loams, clay loams and sandy loams are best. An ideal soil should be well-draining, high in organic matter and have adequate mechanical strength. To successfully grow a healthy cherry tree, it is best to use soil with high levels of nutrients, water and air.
<h2>Pruning</h2>
Most cherry trees are pruned into either an open center structure or a modified central leader structure. Pruning is important to ensure that the trees get the necessary sunlight and air circulation for the best yields. Proper pruning is also helpful in controlling tree size and allowing for a more efficient harvest. It is best to prune young cherry trees in the wintertime when they are dormant, but also to keep an eye out for pests or diseases.
<h2>Cherry Tree Pests and Diseases</h2>
One of the most common pests of cherry trees is the Japanese Beetle. In appearance, Japanese Beetles are colorful and characterized by a metallic green head and coppery six-legged body. The larvae of these bugs feed off the roots of cherry trees, jeopardizing the tree’s health. Unfortunately, there is no single solution to controlling them, however, a combination of organic and chemical controls may be effective.
Cherry trees can also suffer from disease. Cherry tree diseases range from viruses to fungi and can affect the health and yield of the tree. Fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, black knot and verticillium wilt can cause twig and branch dieback, as well as fruit and leaf loss. Prevention through pest and disease control treatments, as well as quarantine and sanitation, are the best ways to protect these trees.
Propagating cherry trees is not impossible or particularly difficult. In fact, with just a few steps, anyone can have a grove full of cherry trees all rooted from only one. Taking a cutting is the less expensive and most successful way of propagating a cherry tree if done correctly. The following article is intended to confidently guide readers through the process of taking a cherry tree cutting with suggestions on where to begin, what tools to use and how to expand their grove.
<h3>Picking the Right Tree</h3>
The first thing to consider is which cherry tree to use for the cutting. If a certain cultivar is to be used, picking it is easy. However, if a wild cherry tree with unknown origins is to be used, this is a bit more complicated. First of all, wild cherry trees rarely create true-to-type offspring when propagated. This means, if you take a wild cherry tree cutting, it is incredibly likely you will be taking what is effectively a hybrid cutting.
Experts suggest looking for a healthy, vigorous tree that flowers and produces abundant fruit. A tree with no visible signs of disease or insect damage is the best option. Once the tree is picked, the cutting can be taken.
<h3>Collecting the Cutting</h3>
When taking a cherry tree cutting, it is best to do this in the late summer or early fall season. Picking a young shoot is ideal as these will be more successful in reproduction. The shoot should be about 6 to 8 inches long and no thicker than a pencil. Pruning shears will be needed to sever the shoot from the tree. Make certain the cutting is done close to a node as this is the area of active meristems (the cells used for growth) and will will help the cutting form roots.
Once the cutting is collected, it should be dipped in a rooting inducer and stored in a cool, moist place. If at all possible, it is best to have multiple cuttings ready in case one fails.
<h3>Planting the Cutting</h3>
Once it is time to plant the cutting, fill a pot that is just large enough to hold the cutting with a potting soil mix. The depth of the pot should be around 8 inches. Place the cutting in the soil so that the node is covered by one half inch of soil. Do not plant the cutting too deeply or too shallow.
It is important to water the cutting generously, but also make sure that too much does not pool around the cutting or at the bottom of the pot. Covering the pot with a plastic bag or putting it inside a plastic dome can help keep the soil moist. Make sure to only do this when the cutting is first planted and remove the covering after a few days.
<h3>Care for the Cutting</h3>
After the cherry tree cutting is planted in the pot, it needs to receive at least six hours of direct sunlight. Keeping it in a warm spot will also help the cutting take root. As soon as new growth emerges, the cutting should be regularly watered and fertilized to ensure its health.
It is important not to move the pot around too much during the rooting process. The cutting has to remain in one spot, since changing its location can disrupt the root formation. It will take a few weeks to months before the cutting is established and can be planted in the ground.
<h3>Expanding the Grove</h3>
Once the cutting has successfully taken root and is ready for planting, cherry growers can begin expanding their grove. Creating an orchard of cherry trees can be done in several different ways.
Firstly, cuttings from the original grafted cherry tree can be taken to propagate more of the same tree. This will help to ensure the grower will get the same cultivar, but due to the process, it is still possible that the trees will not be exact clones.
The second option is to propagate another tree from seed, or from another cutting. Collecting a wild cherry seed is much cheaper and easier than buying a grafted cultivar. However, since the seed is a wild variety, the resulting tree will require a lot of work and may not even produce edible fruit.
The final option is to buy a commercial graft and/or rootstock. These pre-grafted plants are available in many nurseries and allow the grower to get the same cultivar as their original cherry tree.
<h3>Harvesting the fruit</h3>
Once the cherry trees are established, they will begin to produce fruit in a few years. However, the fruit-set of cherry trees is often poor and requires specific conditions to yield bountiful crops.
Firstly, both the growing conditions, such as soils and water, and the cultural practices, such as pruning and fertilizing, need to be ideal. Good and even pollination is also necessary for uniform and satisfying fruit ripening. Though the best pollinators of cherry trees are bees, it may be necessary to help out by hand-pollinating the flowers when there are few bees available.
Finally, cherry growers should have an accurate understanding of the cultivars they select as different varieties will have different harvest times and require different management practices.
<h2>Storing Cherry Tree Cuttings</h2>
Cherry tree cuttings should be kept in a cool and dry place until ready for planting. If the cuttings need to be kept for a long period of time, wrapping them in moist newspaper and then placing them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator is the best way to go. Cuttings can also be kept dry by placing them in a sealed jar, such as a mason jar, and adding one-tenth of a teaspoon of talc or honey as a drying agent.
<h2>Soil Requirements</h2>
Cherry trees require soils with a pH range between 6 and 7 and loams, clay loams and sandy loams are best. An ideal soil should be well-draining, high in organic matter and have adequate mechanical strength. To successfully grow a healthy cherry tree, it is best to use soil with high levels of nutrients, water and air.
<h2>Pruning</h2>
Most cherry trees are pruned into either an open center structure or a modified central leader structure. Pruning is important to ensure that the trees get the necessary sunlight and air circulation for the best yields. Proper pruning is also helpful in controlling tree size and allowing for a more efficient harvest. It is best to prune young cherry trees in the wintertime when they are dormant, but also to keep an eye out for pests or diseases.
<h2>Cherry Tree Pests and Diseases</h2>
One of the most common pests of cherry trees is the Japanese Beetle. In appearance, Japanese Beetles are colorful and characterized by a metallic green head and coppery six-legged body. The larvae of these bugs feed off the roots of cherry trees, jeopardizing the tree’s health. Unfortunately, there is no single solution to controlling them, however, a combination of organic and chemical controls may be effective.
Cherry trees can also suffer from disease. Cherry tree diseases range from viruses to fungi and can affect the health and yield of the tree. Fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, black knot and verticillium wilt can cause twig and branch dieback, as well as fruit and leaf loss. Prevention through pest and disease control treatments, as well as quarantine and sanitation, are the best ways to protect these trees.
